Part1

Research

Personal Research

Typhoon Hagibis

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(https://www.afpbb.com/articles/-/3249286)

On October 12, a typhoon, said to be the world's largest, hit Japan. It is not uncommon for a typhoon to come to Japan, but this time it was an unprecedented force. Japan is originally a country with many earthquakes and typhoons. Each time the human environment is destroyed as shown in the picture, it is rebuilt every time.
Scrap and build. This is forcibly done in the form of a disaster.
In the sense of coexisting with nature, I think that not only will humans be destroyed, but the experience of destroying the environment created by humans may be a hint for the future world.

Youkainoshima

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[Namahage, Akita]

 

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[Boze, Kagoshima]

 

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[Saotome, Miyagi]

 

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[Taikouchi, Kagoshima]

 

This is a photo of costumes for festivals and events held in various parts of Japan. Many Japanese festivals have a long history, and these costumes have been used before Western clothing culture entered Japan. In other words, it is an ancient Japanese fashion. Even if I don't have my hometown, I can feel empathy and feel Japanese. I think it is important knowledge for manufacturing as a Japanese.

Yoshikazu Yamagata

He is the most affected designer for me.

graduated from CSM in 2005.

「山縣良和」の画像検索結果

(Graduate Show "The Kingdom of nude" written by Yoshikazu Yamagata)

He is the designer of fashion brand writteafterwards.

The brand name is from afterword, because the all works has stories and he values it.

「writtenafterwards」の画像検索結果

(writtenafterwards 2015-16ss

https://www.fashionsnap.com/collection/writtenafterwards/2015-16aw/)

「writtenafterwards 0点」の画像検索結果

(writtenafterwards 09-10aw

https://www.fashionsnap.com/collection/writtenafterwards/0910aw/)

He is my first designer who values the story and the background.

I study  that the story is important to move people's hearts. Of course I'm moved.

Japanese Rock

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(BOOWY 24/12/1987)

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(COMPLEX "BE MY BABY" MV)

They are the forerunners of Japanese rock bands. BOOWY uses makeup as a man for live performances.
COMPLEX MVs are shot with a single camera in a way similar to the self-portrait that is used in modern times, and the perspective is effectively used. Both are in the 1980s.
I listen to 80's music closely because of my parents, and I am greatly influenced by it. There are many fashion designs inspired by the old ones such as the 1980s, and I would like to continue my research.
 

Bethany Williams

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(Bethany Williams 16AW

http://www.bethany-williams.com/)

 

Bethany Williams keeps searching how to create fashion sustainability.

This collection is made from recycled cardboard donated by Tesco and fresh fruit and vegetables from Tesco for waste items from the Vauxhaul Food Bank.

It's amazing for me. Sustainable is one of trends now. At first glance, the clothes of Bethany Williams you can see that it is not an ordinary material.It was refreshing for me to use sustainable as a way of creation without losing fashionability because of worrying about sustainability.
I think it is desirable to inspire problems through idea and material research rather than being bound by environmental problems.

 

clo3d study

Transition Design

[study about transition design]

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{Transition Design: An Educational Framework for Advancing the Study and Design of Sustainable Transitions (presented at the STRN conference 2015, Sussex)}

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日本文化私観(Japanese culture private view)

「日本文化私観」by Sakaguchi Ango

He felt the beauty of the Kominato Prison, the dry ice factory and the small warships he saw when he visited Hokkaido. From that experience, the reason for the beauty is
“These are just the result of placing only what is needed where it is needed.”
What is beautiful
“What comes directly to the heart and digs into the cage.
Said.

PERIMETRON

"Tokyo Rendez-Vouz" King Gnu  MV

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(Screenshots from Youtube

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XDiuwqJg8pU)

 This MV is a straightforward expression of the chaotic mixture of Tokyo and Japan. From this work, I was intrigued by collage and graphic techniques and 3D images.

 

Purple

All images are from Purple Magazine back number in the library.

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Week 1

Ideas Factory

Research [Ideas Factory]

My keywords were "water" "suspend" "sensualism".

Firstly, English is mu second language, so I couldn't understand the meaning of sensualism.

According to a dictionary, sensualism is

  1. Addiction to or obsession with sensual pleasures or affairs
  2. The doctrine that gratification of the senses is the highest good.

It's nikuyokuteki in Japanese.

So I research and collect the images of nikuyokuteki.

( a book by Shusaku Endo "love and love" )

 

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( Akina Nakamori : Japanese idol in 90s)

 

[Water]

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(photos by Okuyama Yoshiyuki)

"The Swimming Pool" Leandro ERLICH

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(21st Century Museum of Contemporary Art, Kanazawa

https://www.kanazawa21.jp/data_list.php?g=30&d=7&lng=e )

"JUST ADD WATER" Burk Uzzle

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 (Images from the book in the library)

Hussein Chalayan

[The Tangent Flows]

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(Hussein Chalayan graduate collection 1993)

He used silk dresses that had been covered in iron filings, buried in the ground for month in the collection.

 

[AFTER WORDS]

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(Hussein Chalayan 2000AW collection

https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2000-ready-to-wear/chalayan)

This collection was inspired by the plight of the refugee and the horror of having to leave one's home suddenly in times of war.

ALL furniture were pocketable or wearable, so the show room became empty after this show.

 

 

I read the book "Hussein Chalayan from fashion and back".

In this book, he said about his idea source

"I think everything is connected. And I think that a lot of my interests have things in common, that is technology, anthropology, story, space, meaning of space, meaning of a nation, meaning of culture, how geography has affected culture because I come from a very complicated place. ~~~ I'm like a storyteller. And I really say it through the clothes and the shows."

I think it is the most important for fashion designer "Everything is connected".

I need to research not only fashion or design, but also other studies like novels or movies.

 

Cy Twombly

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(Quattro Stagioni: Autunno)

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(Quattro Stagioni: Primavera)

The point I noticed in his work is the freedom of the line. In his work, chaotic lines are often used as if they were unconsciously attracted. Picasso also aimed to draw a childhood picture in his later years, but Cy Twombly may be a similar work. Some of them include graffiti that cannot be identified. However, there are many things to learn about the strength and composition of lines. I also want to refer to the freedom of the idea of creating graffiti into a work.

Dries Van Noten Spring 2015 Ready-to-Wear

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(Dries Van Noten Spring 2015 ready-to-wear

https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2015-ready-to-wear/dries-van-noten)

I was attracted by the combination of textiles and the beauty of shorts. Dries Van Noten is known for its deep knowledge of nature and fabrics. One of my favorite designers. In the climax of this collection, the model lies on the natural-style runway that I have walked so far, and it seems that nature and textiles are integrated. Although fashion tends to attract attention to individual clothes, I learned that the relationship with the surrounding environment is equally important. I think this awareness is important even when shooting with a camera.

Extention Week

Your Surrounding [fashion pathway]

Moon

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(image from Google Map)

Rei Kawakubo

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(Comme des Garcons Fall 2017 Ready-to-Wear)

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(Comme des Garcons Fall 2016 Ready-to-Wear)

https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/designer/comme-des-garcons

[What she said in her interview]

“An increasing number of people are satisfied with the simple clothes they can wear right away. They wear the same clothes as others and have no doubt about them. Not only clothes. Modern people are strong. I don't think there is anything new, cool or new, but I just want to spend some time now.

“People who really express their personality, not just in the fashion field, wear something different from people or wear it differently. Even if it is not clothes, T-shirts create an atmosphere that “this person has something.” If the person's contents are new, what he / she wears will look new. The contents of the people wearing them are also included.Recently, the group's talent has increased and everyone is wearing similar clothes, singing and dancing.

“There can be various forms of business that meet various needs. There are strong creations (creativity), instant fast fashion, and somewhere in between. But all of fashion is democratized. There is no need to"

“If that trend goes on and off, there is a risk of equality or diversification and it will become one color. Good things will be expensive because it requires human hands, time and effort. Just looking for efficiency If you do, you will not be able to make good things in the future. ''

malamute 20ss

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( malamute 2020ss collection

https://www.fashionsnap.com/collection/malamute/2020ss/ )

”malamute”  is a knit brand based in Japan. What I noticed in this collection is that it is environmentally friendly with materials and manufacturing methods.
According to an interview with the designer,
“The materials used are the original checkered jacquard jacquard used for long dresses and the twill material mixed with rayon that expresses natural wrinkles by applying special processing. Both use recycled fibers. It's an environmentally friendly material, and the production method is tailored without sewing. "
I think this is a unique approach to a brand that specializes in knitwear. In order to put the environment and sustainability into the design, both technical and scientific knowledge will be required, and facilities will also be required. Being a professional in a certain field will be a great weapon in future designs. In my case, the university I belong to in Japan is the Faculty of Color Engineering, so I need to improve my knowledge of the field at the same time as designing.

”Hiroshima" Ishiuchi Miyako

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(from The book "POSTWAR SHADOWS" )

This photo book was compiled by photographer Miyako Ishiuchi, taking photos of the remains of Hiroshima survivors. In her interview, she says, “A new relic arrives every year. The family of the survivors donates relics that have been stored for decades. So I take a photo every year.” It was.
What interests me is the presence of clothes that have lost their wearers. In fashion photography, it is customary that a model wears clothes and a person wears clothes and shoots. However, in this photo book, there are no people to wear, so it is a strong expression of the remains. If you look carefully, you will feel frayed, dirty, and scratched, you will feel the history of the clothes, and you will be reminded of the person who once wore them.
Even in fashion photos, if you shoot at a fashion photo without a model, such as a dressing room after taking off or a clothesline after washing, I think that there may be a change in how people receive it even in the same clothes, in the future I want to try it.

Jaimee McKenna

Pierre Cardin

All images from the book in the library, "Pierre Cardin  60 years of innovation" by Jean-Pascal Hesse

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( Wool panel skirt worm over a ribbed wool body stocking, 1970)

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(Tomato-red vinyl raincoat, with hat and thigh-high boots, 1969, Photograph by Patrick Bertrand)

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(Bubble coat in double-face wool, 1988)

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(Suits with propeller sleeves, 1981)

The first thing that attracts attention in his work is the shape. These images are excerpts from the books I used for research. I didn't know much about him so far, so when I first saw it, I thought it looked like Issey Miyake. Perhaps this is because the pattern approach is similar. In his work, motifs such as tomatoes and bubbles are taken directly into clothes, and the size and number are adjusted to finish the clothes.
The material is also interesting. In particular, the tomato red raincoat is effective when a pattern reminiscent of gloss and tomato roundness is reflected in the photograph. In the bubble coat, the thickness and warmth of the wool stand out by using black and white photographs.

From these works, I got the inspiration of how to incorporate material feeling and shape as a technique when presenting to people, including photography.

"Spring and myself" Kenji Miyazawa

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(The date from National Diet Library Digital Collections
 
Kenji Miyazawa was an avid Buddhist believer and had a special view of life and death. People and all things are in equal relations, and their existence can be affirmed by their relationship and influence. For him, poetry is just a record of the relationship.
I felt that way of thinking about the poem very fresh. In many cases, poetry envy human relationships such as love. However, Kenji Miyazawa just wrote as the report. Of course, without his literary talent, it would not be a work. However, I think that there is a possibility of creating new production methods based on the ideas of individuals such as religion.

Week 5

Body and Function

Research [London structure]

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This photo is taken of different doors of the same apartment in London. In Japan, where I lived, the same apartments all have the same doors. So I was interested in seeing an apartment in London.

In London, doors are also unique. Each material has its own personality, such as its material and deterioration, and from that I can imagine what kind of people live. In fashion design, I think it is important to realistically imagine the person who you want to wear. Therefore, it was a new discovery that I can imagine people living from the difference of this door.

Craig Green menswear 18ss

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(Craig Green Spring 2018

https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2018-menswear/craig-green)

 

Craig Green's design is very helpful because it combines basic and avant-garde in a good balance. The basics of the base and the change in the shape of the showpiece look very smart in terms of business. You can see parts for sales and brand.Fashion needs to balance both art and business aspects. Either way, you can't continue your business. He was the subject of research at his fashion show as a good example of both.

Balenciaga Spring 2018 Menswear

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(Balenciaga Spring 2018 Menswear

https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2018-menswear/balenciaga)

The interesting thing about this collection photo is that it is a fashion photo but also a family photo.
When studying fashion at an art university, people tend to focus on the artistic aspect of fashion, but clothing is an essential element that supports life. It is an interesting attempt to incorporate depictions reminiscent of everyday life in fashion shows.

 

Vetements ready-to-wear 18ss

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(https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2018-ready-to-wear/vetements)

Designer Demna Gvazalia is attracting attention using a different approach than traditional fashion shows. This Vetements look photo scouts non-professional people and uses them as models. The above Balenciaga collection is similar, but I feel the intention to bring fashion to the general level.
From this picture, I thought of the difference between fast fashion and top maison. In recent years, fast fashion has been accused of environmental problems, but we believe that the reason behind the rise of fast fashion is poverty and high prices of top maison. I think that fashion is a fashion that only spreads to the private sector, so I thought it was interesting as an intention to return fashion.

Week 4

Language and Interaction

JR Kyoto Station Building

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( Kyoto Station Building 1997  Hara Hiroshi

https://www.kyoto-station-building.co.jp/about/

I go to a university in Kyoto and use it many times.
This station is famous as a Japanese building. It is a very modern design for a station building in a historical city of Kyoto. When this design was announced before the completion, Kyoto citizens criticized it as “there is no sense of Kyoto”, but the criticism disappeared when it was actually built. The sky is reflected on the glass surface, and it looks as if the sky continues. In Kyoto, there are ordinances that limit the height of buildings to protect the landscape, but this design also builds large buildings without intimidation.
The building remains for decades. Perhaps architect Koji Hara designed it in anticipation that Kyoto will flourish as a tourist city in the future. In fashion, we usually make collections in anticipation of the season six months later, but today, when sustainable design is attracting attention, I felt that the perspective of the architectural future should also be helpful.

 

Nakagin Capsule Tower

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(Nakagin Capsule Tower 1972

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nakagin_Capsule_Tower )

This architecture is a work of Japanese architect Kisho Kurokawa.
This is a masterpiece of the Japanese architectural movement called Metabolism. Metabolism is an idea that proposes cities and buildings that grow organically in line with social changes and population growth.
The design and interior of the same cubes are minimal. I felt a futuristic design in this work. I got a feeling like a space shuttle in the movie. I was impressed by the design that gives off a sense of the future by scraping elements. Although it tends to be too much to include when designing, I learned that the appearance changes by reducing the elements.

Abandoned Panopticon Prison in Cuba

[Research task]

Abandoned Panopticon Prison in Cuba

刑務所の建物の1つの内部。

刑務所の建物の1つにある高架望楼。

The prison was designed by a philosopher named Jeremy Bentham. All inmates can be monitored from the central tower, but inmates cannot see the watcher. The tower can be accessed from outside the prison. In other words, the prisoner will have the illusion that he is being watched even if there is no watcher on the tower.

From this design, I felt the consistency between psychological basis and functional design. When doing research, I often see the work of non-designers such as philosophers. Many of these designs are based on theory rather than sensitivity. Such academic design has become a necessary skill for artists. In fashion, the number of brands that develop materials and collaborate with factories has increased in recent years. I also need to have knowledge about other academics besides design. I study color engineering at a university in Japan, and I can't neglect this.

Week 3

Surface and Meaning

Kagari Yusuke

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( Kagari Yusuke 2018 "under construction"

http://yusukekagari.com/work/2018-under-construction/)

Kagari Yusuke is a bag designer with the theme of wall aging. Inspired by the dirt and scratches on the walls of an old building, the surface of the bag is processed and reproduced in a unique way.
I also use his wallet regularly and met several times at the exhibition and heard the story, but I used original paint blended with actual architectural paint etc to reproduce the wall It seems to be doing. The reproduction of the wall is named the urban camouflage and proposes the deterioration over time.
I was influenced by his focus and material development attitude. Deterioration has a negative image in the first place. I think that it is a necessary ability for all designers to find beauty in the minus and to design and introduce it into a form that can accept it. I need to make an effort to look for beauty in my negative image.

 

"line" Diana Harrison

Diana Harrison

Line (2011), detail

(line (2011))

・ Why are you interested in this work?
I learned about her for the first time during a class presentation. I've always been interested in things that feel the flow of time, such as deterioration, so I was naturally attracted to her work.

 

・ Secondary perspective
She is doing research while creating works on textiles. Not only the production but also the knowledge and technology about textiles are reflected in the work, which leads to her originality.

 

・ Future career
I think research on materials will be important in the fashion design that I am interested in. It is necessary not only to create shapes but also to challenge sustainability and materials.

Week 2

Structure and Form

"Ant Farm" Roni Horn

"Roni Horn"

She is an American visual artist. Horn has been intimately involved with the singular geography, geology, climate and culture of Iceland. The landscape and isolation of Iceland have strongly influenced her practice.

[Ant Farm] (1974)

This work shows us an active environment of lives ants is sandwiched between two sheets of glass held in a simple wood flame.

The materials are oak, glass, earth, and ants.

 

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 ・Why this work interests me?

  The reason why I'm interested in this work is entrusting the shape to the ants. The ants don't know they are in an artwork, just living. So, the shape of the work keep changing.

 

・Secondary Perspective

  I guess the secondary perspective is to see what happens under the ground. Horn has the knowledge about geography and geology. We usually don't think about how ants live, but this work make us see the ants live.

 

・future career

  I feel the importance of research to make some artwork from Ants Farm. Now, I'm interested in fashion, but other studies is as important as fashion studies for create fashion.

Bruno Munari

"Bruno Munari"

Bruno Munari was an Italian designer.

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[fantasia]

I have read only this book written by him.

Fantasia is about Design Theory. All designs are classified in twelve theories.

 

・Why this work interests me?

Design or art looks very complicated and difficult to understand. However, I can consider about design with Bruno Munari's Theory after I read this book.

 

・Secondary Perspective

Now the theories are used in combination of two or more.

 

・future career

I can review and think about my design work objectively.